The Best Restaurants in Mykonos
Where to eat in Mykonos, from charcoal beach tavernas to the beach clubs, with the seasonal closures and booking rules that catch guests out.
Mykonos is one of the few islands where the food conversation is genuinely complicated. The raw material is excellent, because the fish comes off boats you can watch unloading and the vegetables come from farms fifteen minutes inland at Ano Mera. The pricing is not. Between late June and early September the island runs on a summer economy that has very little to do with the rest of Greece, and a plate of grilled fish on a beach terrace can cost several times what the same fish costs in Athens. We place guests in Mykonos every season and we have watched families spend an entire week eating badly at famous addresses. What follows is the working list we would give over the phone, including the parts that do not help us sell anything. Two Facts That Decide Everything Else Start here. Mykonos is punishingly expensive in high season, and Mykonos is punishingly seasonal. Most of the kitchens worth crossing the island for run from roughly late April or May to late September or October, and a serious share of the island simply closes for winter, including some of the tavernas people travel specifically to eat at. If you are coming in November, February or March, assume the island is a handful of year round rooms in Chora and Ano Mera and plan around that rather than around a list you found online in August. In July and August the reverse problem applies. Everything is open, everything is full, and the tables available at short notice are usually available for a reason. Chora, and the View Premium Chora, the main town, is where most guests eat most nights, and it is the easiest place in Greece to eat badly at speed. The rule is blunt. The closer a table sits to a sunset view in Little Venice, the more of the bill is buying the view rather than the cooking. That is not a scandal, it is simply worth knowing before you order. Kounelas has been grilling fish in the back lanes for decades and still does it properly. Sea Satin Market, sitting below the windmills, is a large, loud, long running operation that gets the fish right far more often than its size would suggest. The small kitchens in the lanes behind the main shopping street are better value than anything on the water, and you can find two or three of them in ten minutes on foot. Villa Lavan, Mykonos Ano Mera, the Inland Correction Ano Mera is the island's inland village, about twenty minutes from Chora, arranged around a square with the Panagia Tourliani monastery on one side. The tavernas on that square are where a good number of the island's own residents eat, and the cooking is plainer, slower and a great deal less expensive than anything on the coast. This is where to order goat in tomato, kopanisti, the sharp aged cheese Mykonos actually produces itself, and louza, the cured pork you will rarely see on a beach menu. It is also one of the few parts of the island with any real life in the shoulder months. If you are here in May or October and the beach places are shuttered, drive inland before you c
Mykonos is one of the few islands where the food conversation is genuinely complicated. The raw material is excellent, because the fish comes off boats you can watch unloading and the vegetables come from farms fifteen minutes inland at Ano Mera. The pricing is not. Between late June and early September the island runs on a summer economy that has very little to do with the rest of Greece, and a plate of grilled fish on a beach terrace can cost several times what the same fish costs in Athens. We place guests in Mykonos every season and we have watched families spend an entire week eating badly at famous addresses. What follows is the working list we would give over the phone, including the parts that do not help us sell anything.
Two Facts That Decide Everything Else
Start here. Mykonos is punishingly expensive in high season, and Mykonos is punishingly seasonal. Most of the kitchens worth crossing the island for run from roughly late April or May to late September or October, and a serious share of the island simply closes for winter, including some of the tavernas people travel specifically to eat at. If you are coming in November, February or March, assume the island is a handful of year round rooms in Chora and Ano Mera and plan around that rather than around a list you found online in August. In July and August the reverse problem applies. Everything is open, everything is full, and the tables available at short notice are usually available for a reason.
Chora, and the View Premium
Chora, the main town, is where most guests eat most nights, and it is the easiest place in Greece to eat badly at speed. The rule is blunt. The closer a table sits to a sunset view in Little Venice, the more of the bill is buying the view rather than the cooking. That is not a scandal, it is simply worth knowing before you order. Kounelas has been grilling fish in the back lanes for decades and still does it properly. Sea Satin Market, sitting below the windmills, is a large, loud, long running operation that gets the fish right far more often than its size would suggest. The small kitchens in the lanes behind the main shopping street are better value than anything on the water, and you can find two or three of them in ten minutes on foot.
Ano Mera, the Inland Correction
Ano Mera is the island's inland village, about twenty minutes from Chora, arranged around a square with the Panagia Tourliani monastery on one side. The tavernas on that square are where a good number of the island's own residents eat, and the cooking is plainer, slower and a great deal less expensive than anything on the coast. This is where to order goat in tomato, kopanisti, the sharp aged cheese Mykonos actually produces itself, and louza, the cured pork you will rarely see on a beach menu. It is also one of the few parts of the island with any real life in the shoulder months. If you are here in May or October and the beach places are shuttered, drive inland before you conclude that the island has nothing left to offer.
The Charcoal Tavernas Worth the Drive
The single most quoted address on the island is Kiki's Tavern at Agios Sostis, which runs without mains electricity, cooks everything over charcoal, does not take reservations and historically does not take cards. The queue in August can run past an hour and there is no mechanism to shorten it, which is either charming or infuriating depending on how hungry the group is. Nikolas at Agia Anna is the calmer version of the same idea, right on the sand, and much easier to get into. Fokos, on the exposed north coast, sits at the end of a road surface that will make a rental car nervous, and the reward is a quiet lunch on a beach that never fills up. All three of them close for the winter.
Beach Clubs, and What You Are Actually Buying
Nammos at Psarou, Scorpios at Paraga and Principote at Panormos are not restaurants in any normal sense, and treating them as restaurants is how people get hurt. Minimum spends on beds and front row tables are real, they move with the calendar, and they are usually confirmed by message rather than published anywhere you can check in advance. The food is competent. The setting, the sound and the shape of the afternoon are the actual product, and on that measure they deliver what they promise. If what you want is lunch, this is a very expensive way to get lunch. If what you want is the afternoon, it works, and it is worth paying for once rather than four times in a single week.
The High End, Honestly Assessed
Mykonos has a serious fine dining layer now, concentrated in the hotels above Chora. Matsuhisa at the Belvedere brought the Nobu style kitchen to the island years ago and remains one of the most consistently well run rooms here. Bill and Coo and Interni both cook at a high level with proper service to match. The honest caveat is that a lot of the top end on this island is imported, and you can eat a near identical meal in London, Dubai or Miami. If you have four nights and you want to remember Greece rather than remember a good restaurant, spend one of them on the imported high end and the other three on fish, tomatoes and a hillside.
What to Order Once You Sit Down
Fish is sold by weight almost everywhere, so ask for the price per kilo and ask to see the fish before it is cooked. A whole fish chosen at the counter and grilled plainly with oil and lemon is the entire point of eating here, and anything arriving under a heavy sauce is usually hiding something. Beyond that, order the local things rather than the international ones. Kopanisti on bread, louza, fava from Santorini, tomato fritters, wild greens with lemon, and whatever is chalked on a board rather than printed on a laminated menu. Greek wine has improved enormously in the last decade and the Assyrtiko on most lists is better than the imported white sitting next to it at a lower price point.









